Charenton, Louisiana, shares its name with a Parisian asylum—apparently, the sanity of anyone who chose to move there was suspect. Maybe, that’s what drew me in. Charenton is within the Atchafalaya Basin. I wanted to know how it felt to nose my canoe into the country’s largest floodplain forest and the wildest area remaining in …

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09.13.21: Katahdin Woods and Waters National Monument

Katahdin Woods & Waters National Monument, mid-September. Mushrooms color the ground, warblers the trees. The woods are full of little flocks, and the flocks feel like an end-of-summer mixer of locals (chickadees and Hairy Woodpeckers) and seasonals (the neotropical migrants.) The chickadees are loud—drawing attention, almost, to the warbler departure. “It’s time to say goodbye!” …

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